if you order your Hurst shifter from David Kee Toploaders, you can get it modified by him so the stock shifter handle is used, He mades a plate on the Hurst unit for it to bolt to. The look and angle is 100% stock in appearance, and you have the positive stops of the Hurst unit, which is probably the only true thing it has going for it thats better than a stock restored Ford shifter.

With his set up using the stock boot is no problem of course.

Hurst Competition Plus Shifters

I used one of his Hurst units set up that way on my '66 GT350 when I mothballed the original T-10 transmission for a few years. It worked flawlessly

Other transmission guys like Dan Williams might have the same set up for sale, I don't know.


Z

 

if you order your Hurst shifter from David Kee Toploaders, you can get it modified by him so the stock shifter handle is used, He mades a plate on the Hurst unit for it to bolt to. The look and angle is 100% stock in appearance, and you have the positive stops of the Hurst unit, which is probably the only true thing it has going for it thats better than a stock restored Ford shifter.

With his set up using the stock boot is no problem of course.

Hurst Competition Plus Shifters

I used one of his Hurst units set up that way on my '66 GT350 when I mothballed the original T-10 transmission for a few years. It worked flawlessly

Other transmission guys like Dan Williams might have the same set up for sale, I don't know.


Z

Z, do you happen to have a good photo showing how the shifter handle is mounted? Hard to tell from the link.

 

I already have the shifter from Jegs

 

I used the various rubber ones since I put my Toploader in, and they eventually split or disintegrated within a year or two. I finally bought one of the leather boots and it has lasted for quite awhile, but now one of the seams is started to come apart. I have a console in my car, so don't have to worry about the looks around the base.

 

Research, research, research...

 

LOL. :x

Bet you've been itching to say that all day. I'm somewhat honored by how much time you probably spend thinking about me.

I think my original post shows a fair amount of research. Now I'm asking for experiences and firsthand knowledge.

 

Were all honored just to have you as a member of this forum j...no worries here. I hope you find solution. It appears Z has offered a couple viable options.

 

Has anyone used the round hole OEM boot with the Hurst shifter?

Routinely. The only problem is if you use the late-65/68 ring that hangs on the boot, it limits flex of the rubber. If you have a console, or any 69-73, not a problem. But the solution for non-console 65-68 is to use the early 65 boot retainer, which bolts to the floor.

 

+1

I just bought this bezel on CJ. I am using a hurst comp plus handle, but bolted to a T5. No console. I bought the Scott Drake bezel, which is heavy and seems well made, and I bought the rubber boot as well as a leather boot...will see which one looks/fits better.

If you buy from CJ, use the code IMBACK and save 5%.

 

I know it's not what you asked, but I hate the rubber boots. I used a leather fox mustang boot in my car.

 

I know it's not what you asked, but I hate the rubber boots. I used a leather fox mustang boot in my car.

Everything helps. I probably will go with rubber for the look, but thanks for the pic of an alternative.

I used a 1970 shift boot with a rectangular hole and trim ring on my 66 FB I ordered from John's Mustang.

I wondered about that. The OEM 1969-70 boot looks pretty stout compared to the others.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-16550?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-joes-racing-products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3bW56syl2QIVA4xpCh15Qg2wEAQYAiABEgIwyPD_BwE

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...s-racing-products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3bW56syl2QIVA4xpCh15Qg2wEAQYAiABEgIwyPD_BwE

I wonder if the logo is removable? Would hate to have to respond to everyone, "Who is Joe and why are you driving his car?"

 

Stitched on. Could be removed.

 

Hurst Shifter Boot

I used a 1970 shift boot with a rectangular hole and trim ring on my 66 FB I ordered from John's Mustang. I had to drill two additional holes in the boot mounting ring so it would line up with the factory holes in the trans tunnel. Also had to trim the carpet back a little in order to get the boot mounting ring under the carpet. It's a real tight fit and a pain to get the trim ring on but I think it looks really good.

 

Here's the idea I'm currently pondering.

This boot:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oer-3893853

With this base:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c4zb-7262-b/overview/

Probably have to trim the boot base up a bit and it's a little more pricey than some other options but I think it could be a good compromise of everything else.

I'm going from auto to manual, so I have no stock parts in my hands to look at except the automatic shifter. Also have no console.

 

How about something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1970-F...&rkt=2&mehot=lo&sd=272403458562&itm=262769474897&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

I am using the Scott Drake full leather shifter boot, which has a metal insert to match the OEM bolt pattern attached to the bottom of the leather boot. The boot can be raised or lowered to your desired height by a tie cord.
I also found a custom shifter bezel (Very Nice!) by JRL Design. The JRL bezel also has a matched bolt pattern to OEM specs.
I think it looks nice and the leather should hold up pretty well and not crack, as many of the rubber boots I have seen have done.
I guess it all boils down to personal preference!

 

Is that bezel aluminum or Plastic?

 

Is that bezel aluminum or Plastic?

John,
It's what looks to be a machined billet. Quite heavy and thick. I tried to enlarge a picture of it, but by doing so, the picture got a bit fuzzy. I thought I had a good picture of it from when I purchased it, but can't find it. I was impressed with it and the construction being a fully machined piece of substantial aluminum.
Nice that it's a perfect fit for the OEM spaced mounting holes and also that it isn't too large (H x W). I haven't seen this bezel currently being offered, but if JRL is still around, they may have one or can have one made up.
I hope this helps answer your question.

 

Thanks! I got some new black chrome powder coat that I need to try out on something.

 

Here's how my solution is working out so far. Not perfect because the boot was not a damn square even though CARiD said it was. But I think it came out OK.

 

Good luck with the install. I can say installing a stock boot onto a stock shift lever with reverse lock out is a bear. Yours should go much better or at least easier.

 

Couldn't agree more - I know when I did mine I really had to get that boot warmed up in boiling water in order to have enough elasticity to stretch out over the reverse lock-out.

John

 

Hmmm, in comparing the SD manual trim ring to my auto trim ring, the screw holes don't line up. I'm not opposed to drilling new holes (that's what C-Codes are for: drilling, cutting, grinding...) but for some reason I thought they'd be the same.

 

I here it all the time. Oh it’s just a coupe (hardtop for you purists), yeah well it’s also a real GT. Where’s your car?

 

I here it all the time. Oh it’s just a coupe (hardtop for you purists), yeah well it’s also a real GT. Where’s your car?

And YOU know WHO you are! >

 

I'd be less likely to pull out the reciprocating saw to solve problems if I had a GT.

 

Hey, I’m not opposed to cutting anything. If it needs to come out...what options do you have? It’s just metal right. Now if there is a K in the VIN, the considerations increase somewhat. Like Evan, he’s a bit of a gangster. When I read his build thread, I gasped a little. Hoping he is in good hands.

 

Searched and found this thread. My question is, Hurst shifter, what boot do you use with a console . ? I found a console, test fitting it, dont see how the console and a Hurst boot work so what do you use if you have a console?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

I’m using factory boot with the console. However.....my hurst wouldn’t go into 2nd without trimming the tunnel hole and I had to trim the boot base as well which necessitated cutting a small hole in the boot too. It gets covered by the carpet and you can’t tell at all. It has held up well for 10 years now.

 

FYI, I only had to clearance about 1/4 - 1/2 back and about an inch wide on mine. Your PO hacked that up pretty good!

 

I just use a Spectre small shifter boot. My first one lasted 17 years before it ripped so I just ordered another one from Summit last week. My tunnel was also hacked by a PO but this boot gets the job done and for only $9 to boot.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-6283

 

Before my T5Z installation, I ran a toploader with a Competition Plus shifter in my '66. It requires no cutting to the opening and aligned with my console perfectly. I know you don't have the console, but if you install the lower boot (shown on the left in picture), you can run any upper boot you prefer, including leather like I did. BTW - I sold everything in the attached pic for $1100.

 

Aha, this just answered a question I had been wondering. Will the lower boot work on a Hurst Competition Plus shifter? Looks like it does @rhutt