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C4 manual valve body vs toploader conversion

7.1K views 14 replies 13 participants last post by  GT350HR  
#1 ·
Hi all - I recently acquired a 66 v8 coupe in very nice condition - it has a 347 stroker with a lot of engine mods and a C4 3 speed trans. I'll be getting it dynoed shortly.

I have been reading a lot lately about manual conversions but before I go that route I have also been reading about manual valve bodies (where you have to shift each gear and have no "drive").

I saw that Performance Automatics sell a reverse manual valve body for the C4. I'd be looking at about $450 for that and another $300 for an aftermarket shifter. This gives almost complete control and very firm wheelspinning shifts. I'm sure this would give me a fun set up for both street and track (drags).

On the other hand I'm a sucker for a manual trans. But toploaders are fairly rare and expensive from where I'm from (Aus) so looking at maybe $2500 for a conversion and that's doing it myself.

Most of my driving is cruising on the weekend with a visit to the drags bi-monthly.

Will I be satisfied with a manual valve body (I've never driven one) or should I go manual?
 
#15 ·
merlin6014,
I have run a full manual ( reverse pattern P,R,N,1,2,3 not 3,2,1 ( like normal) for over 40 years in my '66 GT350 drag car. I use the original '66 "green dot" shifter. This allows a "no gate" , "slap into second" with a positive stop , followed by pushing the button to allow the shift to high. This is about as trouble free and simple as it gets. The reverse pattern "to me" is a far safer design. One thing to note is "most" manual valve bodies do not have "low gear band apply" so they "freewheel" when letting off the gas in low gear. "Compression braking" is only in second and high gears. The "forward" (3,2,1) pattern valve bodies do have low gear band apply though. I don't like upshifting toward neutral.
The automatic improved my times and consistency , PLUS stopped drive train breakage. I see no advantage to drag racing with a top loader. The current engine runs 11 teens but other engines have had me in the tens. I have made over $50,000 bracket racing it for the last 43 years with the auto. It is an original Hertz rent a car that came with the C4.
Randy
 
#14 · (Edited)
Shifting a manual valve body doesn't get old. In fact, it works better than slugging along in D if you are out on the freeway in a jam up of cars and is easier than driving a stick in that same situation. It is not the problem y'all are trying to make it. My one qualification is that I run a healthy stall with mine. Coming to a stop, you can brake shift it or just slow down to almost a stop and then hit the ratchet twice to get back to #1. There is no lug down in any gear at low speed like you have with a clutch but some of that may be my converter. Don't get me wrong though. I like sticks and clutches too. They are simply different. I don't see one as better or worse or inferior or superior to the other.

The B & M pro ratchet or prostick maybe it is called that I have works great. I have no complaints with it except for the cost. It is not one of those funky z gate shifters either. It is just a ratchet and thats all. I will take a wild leap and say that some of the bad experiences are from people not having the shifter cable adjusted properly, not routing the cable properly or having a cable that is too long or too short. The "universal" cable that comes with the kit(at least for a Ford) is often too long.
 
#13 ·
On my 66, my clutch linkage is all spherical bearing and the pedal hanger has sealed roller bearings. It silky smooth![/QUOTE]


^^^ This. Plus Dan Williams Toploaders for parts. I've bought parts from him and never been disappointed. Just make sure you have at least 30 minutes scheduled for Dan. He will talk to you like you're his trusted neighbor. Cool guy.
 
#12 ·
I would leave the manual body C4 for drag strip only car. I think it would get old after a while banging the gears up or down. With the Toploader you'll have much more control over the shifts. If you leave the C4 just put a shift kit in if it doesn't have one already. Even a stock 5.0 can make short work of a T5.

On my 66, my clutch linkage is all spherical bearing and the pedal hanger has sealed roller bearings. It silky smooth!
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the advice so far.

In regards to shifter if I went manual valve body I was going to go for a Gennie Commander or a Lokar as I like the "big chrome straight stick look". (yes I dislike the B&M shifter looks as well). The reason I was thinking manual valve body over an auto shift kit is I want to be forced to shift and actually drive it as well as it apparently means you run a lot higher line pressure and get that lovely wheelspin between gears. It's not a daily driver just a fun occasion car so practicality comes into none of this. The ONLY reason I am considering this route is less $$$, and faster at the drags (drags are just for fun though on amateur nights).

To be honest though I would jump at the chance for a manual conversion if I can find the right price. Got a quote today for a conversion kit - all parts with a reconditioned toploader $4200 USD. :frown2: Might be better off making a full list and buying parts slowly off ebay etc. I would look at T5's but from what I have read I don't think they would handle the engine mods I have - a dyno run is needed.
 
#9 ·
I remove B&M type shifters whenever possible from
Cars I import

I can't tell you how much I despise them. Calling them Garbage would be kind. Difficult, hard to shift, insanely notchy, ruins the driving experience.

Toploader or T5. Don't look back.

Peter
 
#8 ·
back in the old days, i would have jumped on the top loader bandwagon, in fact i probably would have been running the wagon. these days however, i tend to lean towards automatics, my left leg doesnt operate like it used to, so its pretty much automatics for me.

i will suggest however that instead of going with a full manual valve body, i would recommend using a later model valve body in a manual/automatic mode instead. that way you can put the trans in drive and not have to worry about shifting in day to day driving, but when you hit the track, or the twisties, you get to control the trans and what gear you are in, especially when using a ratchet shifter so you dont miss a gear.
 
#6 ·
Hard to say. It all depends what you want or will enjoy the most.

I have a reverse manual C4 racing transmission and a racing converter/B & M pro ratchet in my mustang which was built specifically for drag racing and I have been driving it on the street. I have a 4 speed manual in my other project which is a turbo 4 cylinder street buggy which I will also probably drag race some.

I like both.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Manual valve body auto's are for the dragstrip. If you have a healthy left foot and want to have fun on the street, Happystang is 100% correct!