C-Clamp

 

I had the same issue, angle grinder with cut off wheel or sawzall and lots of blades. Just cut both ends of the bolt between the mounts of the frame (cut through the rubber ends of the springs). I will stink up the garage a little but about 15 minutes per side...common issue.

 

Ill try the c-clamp first. I just smoked the garage out cutting the shackles off. Thanks for the quick replies.

 

Did the same thing to my car this week. I put an impact wrench on the bolt and spun it. That broke it free. This car is pretty rust free so it was easy. The car before this was a different story. My garage stunk of burning rubber for three days!

 

Go to a Midas, CarX or other place that replaces leaf springs. A minute with the cutting torch and a spring is off. The car is up on a lift with fire extinguisher right in each stall.

Last time I replaced leaf springs (my Wisconsin 70 Torino rust bucket) I used my cutting torch and gave it heck! Don't do it! I was single at the time, alone at my house, could have burned the house down!

 

Go to a Midas, CarX or other place that replaces leaf springs. A minute with the cutting torch and a spring is off. The car is up on a lift with fire extinguisher right in each stall.

Last time I replaced leaf springs (my Wisconsin 70 Torino rust bucket) I used my cutting torch and gave it heck! Don't do it! I was single at the time, alone at my house, could have burned the house down!

Good story Slim!

 

+1 Sawzall

Finesse (c-clamp and a socket, and or rotate the frozen bolt/eyelet with a ratchett and use a hammer push to one side as much as you can, or pry bar, or with the aft leaf spring free from the shackle, leverge the leaf spring to one side, and or any way you can think of) the leaf spring within the perch to give you access (limited) to the bolt shaft (not the metal sleeve that the bolt is frozen into) and use the sawzall to cut through the bolt only and bam, less than 5 minutes later, for me, with only using 1 sawzall blade, the son-of-a-gun was out!

 

Does anybody have a trick to get the front bolt out...

I paid a pro to do it. :shrug:

Not much choice for me... I don't have a torch or sawzall or power chisel or pickle fork or any of the tools (or skills) that might remove a bolt that's rusted in place.

IIRC, my local shop charged for 2-3 hours to R&R the leaf springs (I supplied the parts).

Related thread:
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...om/vintage-mustang-forum/663786-passenger-side-leaf-spring-removal-success.html

 

I wouldn't do this job with a torch if you held a gun on me. I'm pretty good with a torch, but I have seen way too many examples of Mustang flambé to consider it.

If the bolt doesn't slide out, I use a hammer tip on an air hammer to pop it loose from the sleeve. If that doesn't work, I go for the cutoff wheel, cutting the spring off the eye. Then I rotate the eye 180°, and cut it again, removing the eye from the bushing. Then I cut through the bushing, to cut the sleeve and bolt in the center. The quick and safe way.

 

I used a cutting wheel to cut the bolt on both sides of the leaf spring.

Mine had rusted itself to the metal tube insert, and there was no amount of pounding, penetrating oil that would have gotten it out.

 

Exactly what we had with our mid western car...............5 min per side with the cut off wheel took care of it.

 

Leaf Spring Mounting Bolt Removal

 

Sawzall. When You put the new stuff in remember to put some good water proof grease on that bolt.

 

Sawzall.

Where?

 

I used the recip saw as well, cut the bolt between the mount and the spring eye. Did both sides of the eye, no problem what so ever and quite fast.

 

Way too easy to damage the spring perch that way.

 

Well tried a c-clamp tonight no luck. Just bent the handle on the clamp. Ill try the extended nut and bolt trick. If all else fails I'll go the sawzall route. Thanks for all the help. It is the last thing I have to do before I can paint the bottom and put all the suspension back on.

 

I didn't make much progress with the sawzall............maybe it was the blades, not sure. 15 min. later with the grinder's cut off disc and I was done. Let us know how it all goes.

 

Ok got the rear out and one leafspring. Ya 5 blades one one side going to the store tomorrow to get 10 more. lol Its slow but getting there. I'll be happy when I can get this car into a roller.

 

You're getting there...........won't need to do it again for another 40 yr.

 

Tungsten steel blades for the sawzaw.

Artu 6" Reciprocating Saw Blade Tungsten Carbide Gritted Blade 01810 Fits All SA | eBay

 

Tungsten steel blades for the sawzaw.

Artu 6" Reciprocating Saw Blade Tungsten Carbide Gritted Blade 01810 Fits All SA | eBay

2 discs on the angle grinder...........just saying........... whatever works though, that's the bottom line.

 

torch solved the problem quickly but the rubber definitely scares up stink and smoke when it flares up. Don't do it in a closed area. I was trashing the springs anyway. Tried the sawzall without success; air chisel; C-clamp; machinist clamp; BFH............

 

Okay...

I got the bolts out, any suggestion on getting the old rubber out?

 

OK, if the bolt is out, the spring should be laying on the floor. The bushings are removed and installed with a hydraulic press. Are you planning to replace the bushings and re-install the old springs? Unusual.

 

Chisel around the edge of the spring bushing to loosen it up and then you should be able to knock it out with a hammer.

 

Im stalled on my project until the weekend. Never replaced those brushings. I would take the spring outside and torch the brushing until you can push it out. Probably just heat the spring until the rubber is soft. I don't know if the new brushing has to be pressed in.

 

Oh. I have seen them stick in there. Not actually attached deliberately, but years of being there can cause that. It's two pieces, like the one in the spring, just shove something in the hole, try for the gap in the center, and pry.

 

I was able to stick a screwdriver in between the frame and bushing and pry it out. They popped out 5 minutes aside.

 

i finally got it out with one of the short stubby flat heads, about 3" long including handle. Nothing else would fit.

The front's were actually really easy. Took about 5 minutes per side. What I did was put a hefty end wrench on the outside (nut side) and put nothing on the back side (bolt side). I held the wrench firm then bumped it about 5 times with a 3lb sledge hammer. That broke the back side free. Then I was able to put a wrench on the backside to hold the bolt still while I took the nut off. Bolts slid right out.

 

I finally got the last leaf spring out, only 5 more blades. lol Now its on to the rear end clean up and painting the bottom of the car.