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My struggles with FiTech EFI continues!

39K views 73 replies 29 participants last post by  qbui  
#1 ·
To recap my struggles with the FiTech EFI have been ongoing since I installed the unit. Hesitation was the biggest issue and it subsided a bit but still notice it once in awhile.

My last issue I had was after driving the car for awhile, the RPM would stay high in the 1300-1500 range. The stall converter would mask it while I drive until I would put into park and notice it's idling high. Also I had an issue leaving work the last time I drove the Mustang to work and came out and the engine wouldn't turn over. Tried a couple times but would just crank but wouldn't turn over so I checked the hand held and it would not come on. Had this issue few months back when one of the prong in the 6 prong socket had overheated and melted the female receptor. Got it cleaned up to drive home and FiTech sent out a new 6 prong female receptor. Worked fine until last incident at work. I took it apart and it was fine, checked the fuses and they were fine. So put everything back and went back in the car to check and the handheld was back on. Engine turned over and I drove home.

Anyways, didn't have a chance to drive her for over a week due to rain and cloudy conditions. Today was nice a sunny so I decided to take her for a drive. Went to turn on the engine and nothing, not even cranking so i figure the battery was low and I've been waiting to replace the battery with a new one, took that opportunity to replace the battery. After replacing the battery, noticed the handheld was off again. It was on before I replaced the battery so back to checking the 6 pin connector and fuses. Everything still looked fine but I cleaned the prongs anyways and the handheld came back on. Engine started up but didn't seem to idle high enough. Got the engine up to temp while I tried to adjust the throttle adjustment screws. Got the RPM up but the IAC was a 0 so I turned the engine off to plug up all the vacuum ports to check for vacuum leaks. Wasn't able to get the IAC up even with all the ports plugged so I started putting everything back the way it was and then the engine died. The handheld I was looking at to do the adjustment went dark and then rebooted itself. Started the engine up again and started to put my tools away and same thing happened, screen went dark and engine shuts down and screen reboot itself. Happened once more after that. I made sure the connectors were seated tightly and not moving around. At this point, I gave up and drove my daily.

Going to call FiTech tomorrow to see if they have any idea what could be causing this. These ongoing issues are bringing be closer and closer to the Summit 600 carb. The FiTech have been a lot more trouble than it's worth for me. Maybe I just got a lemon.
 
#2 ·
My FiTech isn't perfect but I don't have any issues like that. I believe my issue to be with the dual plane manifold more then the unit.

You issues sounds like an electrical issue. I'm sure you double checked all the connections and make sure they are solid and good. Are your settings staying after the unit keeps rebooting?

I wouldn't dream of going back to a carb after having FiTech, maybe that new Holley Sniper....
 
#3 ·
Settings were saved even after all these rebooting. It could be the other half of the 6 prong connectors that's causing my issue but that is not replaceable since they are connected to the TB. The tech knew about the overheating of the connector issue since that was where he had me check and told me how to temporarily fix it to get the system running again.

Thanks
 
#6 ·
I never had any issues with my harness but maybe i got lucky. If you do get it narrowed down to that harness connection then it wouldn't be too hard to wire in a new connector(s). Wouldn't be pretty but it should eliminate any issues with that original connector.

Could see if they would send a new harness end for that connection, there has to be a way to disassemble that connector and replace the housing/insulation without cutting the wiring itself.

My initial guess is maybe a bad hand held. The fact the settings are saved makes me think that the TBI unit is working and maybe a bad signal from the hand held to the TBI causes the random shut downs.

Doesn't really explain that odd idling issue though.
 
#7 ·
Woodchuck, those are very similar to the ones in the FiTech.
Image


Zray, not sure how to prove one way or another that I got a lemon.

Boom, this is my second handheld. The first one restarted on its own too but never shuts down the engine when it happened.

Thanks!
 
#8 ·
From the sounds of your issues, something is obviously amiss. You could look into their warranty and see what options you have.

What model FiTech do you have?
 
#9 ·
Have you seen this well-run forum on this well-run Chevy site? FITECH EFI TUNING tips, info sharing, ideas, settings, etc... It's 111 pages long at this point. One guy in Europe is offering a reward if someone can figure out his problem. I see on page 111 someone with a FiTech in a 1969 Mustang has just joined the Chevy forum but he's only read up to page 40 so far. There might be some good info there.
 
#10 ·
I just got my FiTech running about a half hour ago. And I can only offer a few initial observations. The wires and connecters are really small. No way would I trust that tiny 16 gauge orange wire to run the pump in the Spectra tank, so I ran a relay. This evening the controller screen kept going white as I tried to start it.So I ran ground from the battery to the FiTech base plate. No white screen and it fired right up. I guess everyone was right about the ground wire thing! I probably won't have any drivability info until March or April as it's 10Âş and salty outside.

It seems these things are awesome or crap. Hope we can find a way to them awesome!
 

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#12 ·
What happens when you don't have the handheld connected? Testing that might help in trouble shooting.
 
#15 ·
Boom, it's been a little over a year so warranty way over.

Couger70, will check that forum. Thanks!

Nailbender, I'm sure you'll be fine. Seems like a lot of people are having good success with the FiTech but there are a few, myself included that are not doing so well with it. Yeah, tried installing a relay before for the fuel pump but didn't work. Must have had my wiring wrong.

Happystang, I have the Eddy RPM intake so dual plane.

JSHarvey, don't really need the handheld after initial setup other than to monitor the data.

Mustang65BK, thanks for the info. FiTech never cared before when I called so figured intake wasn't a concern.
 
#17 ·
The dual plane intake won't cause the issues you're having currently, it's definitely an electrical issue somewhere. You could maybe take all the wiring off (a chore, I know) and then re-install it as if a fresh install, maybe change the locations of the grounds. See if that helps.

Does anyone else local to you have a Fitech? Maybe you could borrow their hand held and see if that helps/fixes the issue. that may help narrow down the problem area without too much trouble.
 
#19 ·
Boom, I'll redo the wiring again but I have a feeling it could be the connectors again or the wires to the TB.

I don't think the handheld is causing the system to shut down. It's just showing me that it has shut down. The first handheld I had rebooted while I was driving many times before they replaced it but it never cause the engine to shut down.

74Rallye, yeah, will try that. I already have a dedicated ground from the battery to the TB.

Thanks!
 
#20 ·
I dont have FITech but I do have FAST ez2.0.

All the grounds need to terminate at the same place or you will have a voltage off set that will cause many problems.

Are you using FITech for the ignition too?

MSD sells a noise filter (capacitor) that wires into both the positive and ground of their ignition box power wires,I had to install one when I installed Vintage Air AC because if caused the system to go nuts. I did the AC first,when I did the EFI I had none of the electrical gremlins others had at the time.

For your problems I would terminate every ground together then run a wire to the battery,also run a ground from battery to engine block,at least a 1ga., then another from the engine to the body,at least 10ga.
For the power the wires for 12v pos (or main) right to the battery. Then ensure your key on power stays on during cranking AND has 12v (at least) while the engine is running. If the key on voltage is intermittent the computer will cycle on and off. If the ignition switch is bad or intermittent it can cause all sorts of problems.
 
#21 ·
Man, sorry to hear that you're having issues! That is crazy.

I've been keeping an eye out for a new EFI system. My Powerjection system has been downright awesome for 4 years and 35,000+ miles, but it really can't compare to the new throttle bodies coming out in terms of ease of tuning / overall tunability. I learned that the company also recently stopped supporting this unit entirely (and killed off their very helpful tech forum at the same time) so that's kind of left a sour taste in my mouth. FiTech has been a good candidate to me - interested to see what you end up finding out.
 
#25 ·
I have had a couple small issues with my installation, and each time I called FiTech and walked them through everything they said the problem is most likely with something I did...and you know what they were right. I have my 12v and constant power on a separate fuse block to take out any of the potential issues that can result from running it through the stock old wiring harness. I also soldered connections where possible too.

Also, how much tweaking have you done to the program- perhaps too much? have you tried just resetting the system to start over?
 
#26 ·
Bdub4u, I have power and ground going straight to the battery. Wires are much larger than the ones from FiTech.

Coolblue65, Will try them again. Didn't pick up last time. I haven't tweaked it much since I reset the system few months back so almost stock settings.

Thanks