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What do you use to clean/maintain your vinyl seats and dashboard?

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14K views 47 replies 34 participants last post by  bmcgc  
#1 ·
My seats are in good condition and my dash is so-so. Anything particular I should stayaway from?
 
#3 ·
I hate buying stuff like that. Seems like every year or two it's a whole new slew of products. I really think all they change the container, label, dye, and scent.

That being said. Mequiers used to have an open house workshop event. I don't remember if it was weekly or monthly. I went twice I think.. A bunch of guys really into detailing gabbing about the products and trying em out on their cars. The rep conducted a brief class on one thing or another. They also provided pizza (from costco but the price was right) It was interesting to go a couple times.
 
#4 ·
Stay away from Simple Green full strength!!

Maybe diluted strength too.

I ruined my newish interior and never recovered. I've been using vinyl dye spray paint ever since to mitigate the damage ever since.

Need new upholstery now.

Learned from before there was an interweb.
 
#6 ·
Stay away from Simple Green full strength!!

Maybe diluted strength too.

I ruined my newish interior and never recovered. I've been using vinyl dye spray paint ever since to mitigate the damage ever since.

Need new upholstery now.

Learned from before there was an interweb.
What did the Simple Green do? I haven't used it on my Mustang but I have used it on other cars, with no detrimental effect (so far....)
 
#9 ·
Stay away from ArmorAll !!!
I often see online warnings to not use Amorall. Ok, why not? I ask because I've been using Amorall since the mid-1970s and I've never had a problem with it. I'm wondering if there's really a problem with Armorall or it's all a misinformation campaign from tire stores wanting to weasel out of warranties. I got that line from a tire store once and I really laid into that guy. I felt bad about it after the fact, but man, I really hate it when a business tries to weasel out of a warranty. "Sorry, I can't replace that 40,000 mile tire that wore out in 12,000 miles because you clearly used Amorall and Amorall destroys tires." I asked the guy to put that in writing. I asked the guy why I didn't get that in writing when I bought the tires. I asked the guy why there was NOTHING in the warranty stating, "Warranty is null and void if tires are subjected to Amorall" or something similiar. Truth was I never even put Armorall on those tires.

Funny how those clowns back down so fast when you actually call them on their BS. I typically use Chadwick's tire dressing. For interiors I like Meguire's vinyl and leather cleaner. But I might use Amorall if it's handy.
 
#10 ·
I'm a minimalist when it comes to using "products" in the interior. I think it's counterproductive, and unnecessary.

For cleaning, I only use whatever it takes to easily get things clean, and in some cases that means just a damp microfiber.. That's right, water. That's all you need to dust and clean minor grime.

And if it's a bit more filthy than just a damp rag can handle, I've found myself using exterior spray detail products like Meguiar's Quick Detail or Chadwick's. They are pretty effective cleaners, but at the same time, extremely non-aggressive. No bleaches or harsh chemicals. And they also typically do a nice job of jazzing-up and sprucing-up your color/depth, without the use of greasy silicone.

For protection, I use NOTHING. I just keep things clean. Unless it's (real) leather, in which case I'll use Lexol. But most modern leather is vinyl-coated anyhow.

The biggest mistake I commonly see people doing with their detailing is over-killing everything. Products products products. It's like lobbing grenades, or using a flame-thrower, to kill a mosquito. Same goes with cleaning glass. The secret isn't how much window cleaner you drown the glass in. The secret is the final buff with a DRY towel to get all of the haze and smear that you created with the cleaner to go away.

Now if you're driving your car daily, and it's getting pounded by UV rays daily, then a quality protectant might be advisable for a classic. For modern stuff, all of the UV protection is already baked into the materials used to produce the interior components.

Last, I've used Armor-All, just the good old original-formula Armor All, for dressing tires my entire life. I've got cars sitting out in my collection that I've had for over 30 years now. I've never seen any measure of damage or deterioration due to its use. I like it because it's water-based, so after buffing it, it flashes off to a "matte" surface, instead of a greasy/nasty/slingy tire. And it's easy to find/buy. Never had a problem, and there's over 800 tires outside of my office LOL ;)
 
#21 ·
I'm a minimalist when it comes to using "products" in the interior. I think it's counterproductive, and unnecessary. For cleaning, I only use whatever it takes to easily get things clean, and in some cases that means just a damp microfiber.. That's right, water. That's all you need to dust and clean minor grime.
This^^^^. (y) (y)
 
#12 ·
Always used just a damp cloth on vinyl.
Never use anything with alcohol except on glass and chrome. It's amazing on those.
I don't recommend anything with silicone.
If your car is parked outside uncovered a lot, and you have to use a protectant, use something labeled specifically for vinyl. The natural oils get depleted after a while, and let's face it...If you leave anything in the hot sun and UV long enough, it will curl up like a potato chip. But my current dash pad, upholstery and carpet is 20 years old on a regularly driven car. They look great.
 
#13 ·
I really like Lucas Slick Mist interior and exterior sprays detailers. Less expensive and just as effective as the $$$$ bigger name brands.
 
#15 ·
For interior cleaning i use turtle wax car soap.
A little bit in bucket of warm water. Use a sponge for the cleaning, a microfiber cloth for the drying.
It is also affective for cloth and carpet. Use a shop vac to suck up moisture.
I don't top dress with anything.
ArmourAll on tires only (sprayed onto clean dry sponge, sponge applied to tires).
Second clean dry sponge to wipe clean.
Hard to make out in this pic but it leaves the tires dark but not shiny or wet looking (unless that's what you are after)
On occasion I have applied WD40 on a sponge to apply to older set of powder coated wheels. Gives it a bit of depth but looks especially nice under street lights,
 

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#19 ·
I keep it simple. On the interior, I use 303 about once a year, and go easy. Other than that, just a damp towel.

I use 303 on my tops and tires. My 67 top is 22 years old and looks brand new. I just replaced my 20 year old tires on my 67...they still looked new.

I use the 303 because it says it has UV protection.
 
#20 ·
I will say this for Simple Green...it is one of the BEST engine (and other parts) degreasers I have ever seen and works very well when cleaning rubber mats or the heavy duty truck vinyl floors. And it smells really good, almost like a new car smell. You could spray some on a cloth and just leave it in the car somewhere and it smells really nice. I don't think it would be a good idea to use or leave on colored vinyl though because it does break up oils, and vinyl is a petroleum product.
 
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#29 ·
Simple Green can play havoc with aluminum and anodized aluminum in particular. It's probably okay on an aluminum intake as they are not a precision finish anyway. I would not use it on polished aluminum wheels or similar finishes.

I just bought some WypAll pre-moistened towels for cleaning my hands and tools. I find they also work very well to remove sunscreen residue from vinyl and leather. These things are awesome:

 
#25 ·
I avoid armor all just for the fact that it’s greasy. I use water based stuff for vinyl/rubber. Can’t stand the greasy feel on seats. I don’t like a glossy finish, just a nice satin shine. If you have greasy tires, dirt and brake dust will stick to it more so than if you have a dry “dressing” applied. I’m not committed anymore to just one brand, I like a variety. I’ve been using P&S Shine All with good results lately.

Detailing is another rabbit hole one can fall far into.
 
#27 ·
For severely grimy vinyl surfaces (picture the driver's door panel in a diesel mechanic's daily driver) I've had amazing results from the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. I don't know what's in it but it works shockingly well.

That said, I can't see many VMF users letting their cars getting dirty enough to need it.
Cleans whitewall tires really well also. Better than the new Black Magic formula Bleche White.
 
#31 ·
I use 303 as well. Do Not use Armor All on convertible tops, especially the plastic windows. Makes them brittle. My top is dated 1998 and it's still soft and the windows clear. Ragg Topp works well too. Tires, Armor All is fine. Meguiars leather cleaner and protection is good. Lexol is better, but expensive.

Perry
 
#34 ·
I use a wet rag to do my initial wipedown - my interior is always covered in dirt and grime because, you know, I use my car as a daily and also camp out of it. Water mostly does the trick though. Sometimes a soft toothbrush-texture scrub brush is good for getting dirt out of the grain.

A few times a year I use the Meguiar's vinyl/rubber cleaner/conditioner mentioned earlier in this thread. It's mostly just important on the dash where the summer sun really cooks the dashpad.
 
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#36 ·
This is what I use mostly. When my DD gets dirtier I’ll use steam too. Since I drive mostly on nice summer days I like having the UV protection afforded by these products.

 
#37 ·
I use a wet cloth to wipe the vinyl down and then a small amount of Dawn if a wet cloth doesn't get the surface clean. For conditioning I use either Lemon Pledge or Weimans leather conditioner.
 
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