Only two options in my opinion. Street or Track or Mike Maier.

 

Global West and Street or Track make great strut rods- can't go wrong with either. I just happened to go with the GW.

 

Street or Track are the best.

Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods

 

+1

-Shannon

 

In that last post one of the nicest, most knowledgeable, and helpful Mustang suspension guys I know of just recommended one of the other nicest, most knowledgeable, and helpful guys I know of. Both of whom pay money to help keep this forum afloat. Don't think anyone can top that recommendation.

 

Another vote for Street or Track. Extremely nice build quality and noticeable improvements in cornering and braking.

 

Another street or track car here... but don't stop there... look into the roller perches as well


...and perform the shelby/arning drop while you're in there!

 

I have the Street or Track adjustable strut rods. They are some of the highest quality suspension components I've seen. You won't be disappointed.

 

SoT, excellent quality. You get what you pay for and that is so very important when it comes to safety!

 

i already ordered roller perch and UCA drop kit/template. Bilsteins on hand too. i had just found the ST website this a.m. i'd like to shoot some gopro of my before and after setup as well.
i'm more interested in what is going on now. i already have sway bars in, cut coils (that will be replaced) monte carlo bar, export brace. 5 leaf mid eyes in the rear too.
wished i had got the reverse eye.
sub frame connectors and caster eccentric lock outs soon to follow.

 

GW or S&T are the two I considered and I ultimately went with GW. They are both the same in price and robustness although I think the GW's frame mounting bolt is a bit bigger but who cares when you can probably hang your car off a bridge with either one. I went with GW because they are based in San Bernardino, CA and if there isn't a clear difference then I always support the local vendors providing jobs to SoCal. Since you're in SoCal drive over to their shop and take a look.

 

SoT is the best, Shaun is amazing, and the price is very reasonable. Having just finished my front end with the roller UCA and LCA this is an an excellent combination. I was able to easily achieve a 4.6+ caster, 1.2- camber and 1/16" toe out. Ran it at Crowslanding autocross meet and it performed far beyond my expectations. If you're going to pick up an adjustable strut rod, you need to also consider picking up a roller lower (and might as well get the upper) to avoid binding the lower control arm rubber pivot bushing. simply, do it now, cuz you gonna do it later.

 

Groho, interesting that you are running toe out. Have you tried I with 1/16"-1/8" toe in to see if it drives any better?

 

Pat, I can't speak from experience but I understand that's quite common to run toe out on autocross. It's suppose to track better in the turns. When you look at Ackerman it really isn't anything more then a pre-determined rate of toe out as the tires turn. It's I believe more fine tuning that rate. Also when you look at the Mustang suspension, under compression the tires toe out. On extension or droop, they toe in. At stock ride height when toe is set, it's set more in the middle of travel so a couple inches up or down, it's not changing too much from the base setting. When the front is lowered and toe is set we now had a wider range of toe in then toe out. All the problems we read of bump steer, the tires are toeing in, especially when you run 67 & later spindles on a 65/66 car. I've thought about trying toe out to mitigate some of these issues. On Mustang Steve's web site he actually mentioned running toe out on 65/66 cars with Granada spindles which have the same geometry as the 67 & later spindles.

 

my headache will probably be removing the strut rods at the frame. those have never been removed.

 

^^ I wonder what dobrostang is running?
What this forum could use would be to "TAG" a persons screen name so they would know to check into a thread when they are needed

 

my headache will probably be removing the strut rods at the frame. those have never been removed.

I'm guessing mine were original but were a piece of cake to come off. Soaked the threads over night in penetrating fluid and hit it with the impact gun next day. Spun right off, best of luck with yours. I just went with stock rods and Moog bushings but I have a feeling I'll be buying the SoT rods before my car goes on the road.

 

I've never heard a bad word about the street of track strut rods, or any of their other products. They work as advertised, plain & simple.

(Same goes for John @ Opentracker)

Z

 

I've heard great things about both SorT and Opentracker...that said, I have TCP adjustable strut rods on my '66 (only because I bought & installed them before I was a member here and found out about these ^^^ guys lol).

 

Question about the SoT adjustable strut rods... since they have the built-in steering stops, and I have the Granada disc brake swap, will I have to massage those with a grinder (like I did with the original stops)? Not sure I want to modify beautiful new parts that way.

 

J-bone, let me pass along an old mechanics adage, forgive me if you already know it. I first heard it in 1970 when I was pretty green, and working full time @ Triumph of Oklahoma City, a motorcycle dealership:

"When at first you modify, your problems multiply."

This was passed in to me by Leroy Youngberg, a sawed-off square jawed cigar smokin' old Swede. He was one of most important mechanical mentors. His specialty was Harley Davidsons, by the. Time I first met him, in 1970, he "only" had 43 years of full time experience working on them at H-D of OKC, meaning he started in 1927 ! ! !

Back to your issue. It won't hurt Shawn @ S or T feeling's at all if you have to knock off a little powercoating and do a little bending to make everything fit right.

Z

 

I'm thinking of getting a set of SorT rods, am I going to be able to get say 3 degree of caster with stock LCA's using the adjustable rod I don't race this car just drive on the road and show , I have new arms ,springs,shocks and roller perches but would still like to improve the steering and handling if possible. Also I have replaced the tierod ends and put in a bearing idler arm. Thanks Rick

 

On a 65/66 you will want to use the shims on the upper control arm to gain as much Caster as you can without going positive on Camber then you can use the strut rods to pull the lower control arm forward to get the rest of the Caster. It is best to replace the lower arm with the ones that Opentracker sells with the Spherical bearing installed otherwise you can bind up the stock rubber bushing if you add too much Caster. Having said that you can probably get close to 3 degrees without issue with the stock lower arm. Just my opinion

 

I bought a pair of the SoT strut rods a while ago and they're the nicest built components I've ever purchased. No joke. Just extremely nice built quality and noticeable difference in braking, handling, and caster adjustability (i.e. they do all the stuff SoT says they're supposed to do).

 

OK lets say I have 2.5 degree of caster with the old set up, what can I get using the adjustable rods ? I'm asking how much caster can you get without putting a bind on your LCA joint ?

 

Interesting discussion! My concern is if I could find an alignment shop that can handle all these exotic components. Anyone have problems getting an alignment shop to work on one of these SoT setups with the strut rods, upper and lower controls arms?

Thanx

Harry Z

 

What we have found from feedback from customers is that alignment shops LOVE the adjustability of our stuff. Means they can get the numbers you want easier.

 

Rmengel, If i remember correctly I have 4.6* caster, and 1.5* camber with 1/8" toe out. I easily got 5* caster with SOT strut rods, BUT you have to be very careful to not pull your wheel too far forward resulting in rubbing the front edge of the fender. I'm running a 235/45/17 up front with a 4.75" B/S. Using a 40 tall tire, or 225 width would have resulted in more caster. So simply, tire height/width has a huge impact on the amount of caster you can dial in without rubbing the front edge of the fender on a 65/66. SOT rods are absolutely worth every penny. I highly recommend getting his camber kit also if you have the ability/welder to do the work.

Heck with it, just spend the money and get the UCA and LCA also. . . .

 

Shaun, I'm the guy that called you that lives by Flint Mi. I hope to get to you later this week and get a set of 65 rods. What kind of numbers should a guy use for a show/driver ? I'm looking for the best ride and good steering, I have manual steering ? Thanks Rick

also what is your camber kit ?

 

Not trying to be Shaun but I run 4 degrees caster with the adjustable strut rods whether it is street or track. It seems to be a good overall setting for whatever you plan to do.

I also have the adjustable camber kit for my 65 and it looks like below. You slot out the lower control arm bolt holes to the frame bracket. I used a high speed carbide grinding bit. So then the slotted base plates weld to the frame bracket. The top plates that fit into the slotted plates are degreed so that you can slide the LCA's in or out from the original neutral bolt hole. Works. I was able to eliminate all but 1 shim on the upper arms.

 

Street or Track LLC's strut rods were forged from competition and IIRC the strut rods were their first ground up product.

Though not likely to help you if you end up on Jeopardy, here is a bit of trivia/history on Street or Track, LLC.

Before Street or Track, Shaun was just another guy on VMF who happened to live in the SF Bay Area. It was here in NorCal where he and his track buddy, Bill Gearhart, decided to delve into the business of suspension fabrication as a side business. As avid trackers, they both used their coupes as test mules and refined their product line with parts that simply worked. Over time, Shaun transitioned into full time Street or Track, eventually taking over Bill's interest in the company. Fast forward and Shaun's family relocated to Michigan and Street or Track followed him. Sadly, a while later Bill (his screen name here was Billgear)was killed in a motorcycle crash. Shaun continued to develop his suspension and brake systems and now has a solid and diverse product line that most folks here know well. Shaun's black '66 coupe continues on as a track and product development test car making cameo appearances in his youtube videos. The red coupe in the home page banner for Street or Track was Bill's car. In the words of Paul Harvey "So now you know the rest of the story".

 

Sadly, a while later Bill (his screen name here was Billgear)was killed in a motorcycle crash.

Some people come and go. I remember Bill and wondered what happened to him. So sad to hear that unfortunate end.